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Sharing Some Tips and Advice About PCI-E USB 3.0 Extenders

30 Mar


The defacto standard at the moment for building multi-GPU mining rigs are the x1-x16 PCI Express USB 3.0 powered extenders/risers used to connect the video cards to the motherboard and everybody is using them. Due to the high popularity and demand there are already numerous variations available and since everyone wants to save on the costs for the hardware to maximize the profits people may end up with lower quality extenders as a result. Extenders are not the thing you want to compromise with both in terms of quality or in terms of price as they are usually connected and the difference in cost is usually not that much so saving some cents or a dollar per extender may not be the wisest thing you want to do…

We wanted to share some tips and advice on what to choose as well as what are some of the more common issues with these PCI-E to USB 3.0 extenders based on our experience so far. These risers boards essentially move the video cards away from the motherboard and have enough space in between them to ensure good cooling. They consist of a couple of components – main board with the video card slot, smaller PCI-E board for connecting to the motherboard, USB 3.0 cable and an optional power adapter (Molex to SATA Power, SATA Power to Molex, PCI-E Power to SATA Power or some other variation). Starting up with the color of the PCB of the raiser board, it seems that black and blue boards are generally of higher build quality than the green ones, so go for either of the two colors if you have the option to avoid green boards.

Starting up with the main board where most things can go wrong, even though rarely there is an issue with these, you can still get into plenty of trouble. The number one problem we’ve experienced with problematic and non-working extenders is due to poor soldering of elements. So checking out the solder joints is always a good idea even before installing the extenders and not after that when there might be something wrong. Check the solder connections of the connectors and the few elements on the board – if everything is in place and makes a good contact with the PCB.

Especially check the soldering of the voltage regulator as if not properly soldered everything might seem to be working fine, but you may still not get image outputted to the display and the GPU not working properly. We’ve also seen bad batches of extenders with the wrong LDO voltage regulators soldered on the PCB, so you might want to check the markings on these as well and verify that they are with 3.3V output. These do convert the 5V power input to 3.3V output required by the GPU as you are not directly providing that voltage and the GPU does need it to function properly.

Also check for solder leakage that may be shorting things on the board, especially around the power connectors. We’ve had some cases of bad soldering where the ground pins of the Molex power connector were shorting out with the 12V pins of the empty space for PCI-E Power available on the board for the extender as these are pretty close to each other. Power shorts like this one usually do trigger the built-in protection of the Power Supply and it does not want to turn on at all or immediately shuts down when you try to power on the system.

The smaller board that connects to a PCI-E slot on the motherboard rarely has issues and if it does it is a result of bad soldering of the USB connector on it. So far we’ve only seen really sloppy soldering job on some riser boards with green color PCBs where they were literally saving on solder and some of the pins had bad connection. That is easily fixable by resoldering the pins of the connector that are actually being used (not all of them are actually used). Other than that there is not much else that can go wrong here. You can use a multimeter to check the connection points on both boards through the USB cable with a multimeter just to be sure if you are experiencing some issues.

We’ve seen a lot of different USB 3.0 cables being used with the PCI-E to USB 3.0 riser boards, but never had an issue with any of the cables, so he chances that something is wrong with the data cable are pretty slim. These cables are used for data transfer only, no power goes through them from the motherboard to the video card and that is why there is a power connector on the board of the extender. Although the name mentions USB 3.0 and we actually use USB 3.0 cables, there is no USB connectivity or support anywhere with these devices. They only use USB 3.0 cables as good quality shielded wires for extending a couple of data lines from the motherboard to the video card. You are not able to plug in a video card to a regular USB 3.0 slot with these extenders, it will not work, so do not try doing it.

There are a couple of different power connectors available on different PCI-E to USB 3.0 extenders and in order to improve compatibility the package usually contains some sort of a power adapter that usually converts whatever connector is on the PCB to SATA Power. Most modern power supplies have a lot of SATA Power connectors and not as many Molex or other power connectors. Still going for the extenders with the standard 4-pin Molex power connector is probably the best choice, even if you have to use the supplied Molex to SATA Power adapter. Just make sure that you do not connect more than two extenders to a single power line going to the power supply as even though this may not be a problem for the Molex or SATA power we’ve seen many cases where it becomes an issue for the modular power connector on the power supply side resulting in melted plastic of the connector, loose connection and issues with that. A while ago we’ve published some more useful information about power cables and power supplies that you might have missed, but checking it out may also save you some possible trouble in the future.

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8 Responses to Sharing Some Tips and Advice About PCI-E USB 3.0 Extenders


March 31st, 2017 at 22:48

Do you have a link where we can get the “blue” ones. I bought some that were blue in the picture on Amazon and they shipped me green.


April 1st, 2017 at 20:01

There are many different variants and some online sellers don’t show an up to date photo of their current stock and can ship pretty much anything, you can try contacting the seller before ordering…

Some dude

April 2nd, 2017 at 05:50

It would have been more beneficial if you had included images of the “bad” pieces you discussed.


April 2nd, 2017 at 07:31


April 3rd, 2017 at 08:52

Some dude, yes, probably, but this post is based on experience over a couple of years and we did not tend to keep problematic extenders in non working condition for long, but instead try to figure out where the problem is and fix it… or in a case of a defective series with the wrong voltage regulator just return them… they could be repaired by replacing with the proper LDO voltage regulator, but sourcing the elements and doing that on 50 boards is pointless when you can just have the extenders replaced with working ones.


April 9th, 2017 at 13:33

It is an excellent article. Yes,everyone wants to save on the costs for the hardware to maximize the profits and hence they may end up with lower quality extenders.This article is very useful.

Nerd Ralph

April 9th, 2017 at 23:39

Paying more is no guaranty of quality. You could spend $10 and still get shit risers. If you buy the risers with the 12V step-down you’ll probably get good quality.


April 17th, 2017 at 18:42

I removed the Molex to SATA power adapter cables and went straight to Molex cables from the PSU. I had two times with the plating on the SATA adapter corroding at the end connected with the SATA PSU cable. It took about 18 months before it happened. It was on the Adapter Cable that came with the risers. So I have PSU’s that can do direct Molex connection for all of the Risers.

I currently have 3 Green, 3 Black and 1 ASROCK BTC Pro Kit. Most have been running for 3 years now.

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