MK, no, it is not a joke – it is real :)

That is impressive, where’s a good place to buy 47 kOhm 402 1% online?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100X-1-0402-SMD-Chip-Surface-Mount-Resistor-47K-47Kohm-Free-Shipping-/281133221855?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4174d887df

How about these?

TC, with the 47 kOhm mod you should still be Ok with the fan running a 5V, though we prefer to desolder the fan completely and use external larger fans with slow rpm to cover multiple units with a single fan – lower power usage and better cooling.

finestcuts, yes, the ones from the eBay link should be fine. Just note that you order them locally and not from abroad, these resistors are very cheap anywhere, so no need to wait a lot for delivery. If you can find a local shop where you can pick them up from it is even better.

jamie, yes, metal film resistors should do just fine as well, they are more common and should be easier to find. They should also be a bit easier to solder as well compared to the 402 size SMDs.

Stephen, the power consumption is increased mostly because of the higher voltage, not so much due to the higher clock frequency. Going down to 1000 MHz for example can lower the power usage by something like 1W, so if you are having HW errors or stability issues at 1150, then better lower to 1100 MHz, and not all the way down to 1000.

nemercry, if you so much want the source we’ve had it was a reader called jamie who sent us a tip by email on 31.03… and that tip was sent before your “secret” mod was revealed in the topic you cite… furthermore we have already done the mod on our hardware and have published before your mod photos “leaking”. We have not just copy/pasted something, we have actually modified our hardware, tested and confirmed as well as posting our own results. In previous posts about voltmods we have also linked to that topic where the community is working on voltmods…

I have a friend that tried to do a few of the mods and wrecked all of the surrounding resistors and now has a pile of these sitting while only one is working!!! Question” where could I find the layout for the PCB and the original resistor falues so I can replace whats missing and messed up in an attempt to recover a few of them?

to be honest I don’t know how to measure or check this kind of thing but I can solder my ass off better then most! there is basicly only one that I would need indication of as when he tried to do it he melted the resistor off and couldn’t find it again….. in the original hardware mod where the third position is open and he tried to solder a bridge to it he took out the resistor directly next to it being the fourth one from the top and beside the open to be bridged area on your original hardware mod….. anyone able to help me find out what value that is and where I could find the replacement for it ?
thanks everyone in advance for the info!

certainly I can but where should I send the pic to? I cant seem to be able to post one here so not sure where to send it?

I used the picture on the top of this page and made a yellow box with green arrows indicating where and whitch one …
http://surfacefinishers.net/1.jpg

47-49 kOhm seems to be the optimum choice in terms of hashrate/power usage ratio, going higher does help for smaller increases in hashrate and significant increase in power usage, so you should be extra careful about the cooling. Though they are designed to handle well about 60W, you might be able to go beyond that if for example you try using a 68 kOhm resistor or an even higher value than that.

Hi didit, according to the BRD file on github, it’s connected to VID1 (pin 13) of the up1509 buck converter.
So when checking the schematic, R333 is the one not connected that needs to be bridged on the first voltmod.
And the one you are looking for should be R332 that is 1k resistor.

Just as a side note, on this new voltmod, we aren’t replacing the R52 resistor (that should be 0 ohm) but the R139 connected to pin 9 of the buck converter and that should be 27k according to the schematic. Anyway, I measured it once unsoldered, and it was 33k.
R52 is the black one just under the circle next to C34 (connected to pin 10) and the next one on the right of the picture is R43 that isn’t connected.

Hello! This has been a great blog on OC’ing GS’s. Before I go destroying all my GS’s, my question is…
Is this the ONLY resistor (the R52) that needs replacing to OC? Or is the previous OC method needed in addition to the R52 replacement?
Thanks for any help!!

Jabberwock—–thak you so very much for your input but I am very sorry to say I really don’t understand all that stuff…. is there any way possible that you could send a link “like to ebay or anywhere else would also work” for the piece I need? unfortunately all I know how to do is solder and when I tried looking for the 1k resistor I was unable to find anything that visually looked like it?
this friend is gonna owe me bigtime! I might even get one of these things for myself and try hashing with it?
thank you guys in advance and a LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jabberwock Thanks for the reply!!

So here is what I gather so far…

47-57K Ohm 402 resistor is good

So how about the 1% tolerance? Can it be lower, like .25-.5% or does it need breathing room?

Also what Wattage? is 1/4w, 1/2w, more? or less?

Thank You again!!!!!!!!

Thanks Jabberwock!
Your replies are much appreciated!!
Sorry, I had to chuckle when you said “lower tolerance will be more expensive” even though their only about $.20 more a piece. But I understand your point :)
I plan to solder these with a low temp solder and flux. I have a adjustable soldering gun with a Fine “small” tip. So with careful hands and tweezers, I’m hoping this will do the trick.
Thanks for the Iso-P tip, never saw that mentioned on any how-to’s for SMD soldering.
Did you have to use new thermo paste when reassembling? I would assume so?

Jabberwock, good to know that can still use original paste. Thank You!

sam Roberts, before and after photos are pointless since you are seeing pretty much the same thing… the first photo in the post is an “after photo”, but since we are replacing a 402 resistor with another 402 resistor with different value the end result looks absolutely the same with maybe some minor difference in the solder joints, but that is really very hard to spot due to the size.

blinktoad, you need to replace the resistor marked with the green circle, that is on the left of the R52 marking on the PCB… since R52 is next to the resistor people just assumed this is the marking for that resistor (R52 is actually the empty space below the marking). In fact Jabberwock is probably right that the actual marking of the resistor is R139, it is the one listed as 33K in the parts list in the official documentation. Just make sure you replace the right resistor you see marked on the photo above and you will be fine.